Not too long ago, mushrooms were often considered insignificant and casually kicked aside, referred to as the “umbrella of a frog.” However, scientific advancements have transformed these seemingly unimportant organisms into valuable resources. Initially utilised as a food source, mushrooms are now not only recognised for their medicinal properties but also for their overall contribution to well-being. MycoWorks, a biotech company based in California, has recently showcased the potential of producing synthetic leather from mushrooms, specifically using mycelium, a network of thread-like branches within the fungal body. This synthetic leather, derived from mushrooms, proves to be superior to natural leather in various aspects, presenting a sustainable alternative that doesn’t compromise on quality.
The leather industry traditionally relies on animal hides for the production of goods that are integral to our daily lives, from gifts to everyday essentials. This industry significantly bolsters the economy by boosting national income and foreign currency earnings, providing employment opportunities, and contributing to overall value addition. In Bangladesh, the leather and leather goods industry has showcased significant potential and gained international recognition. She secured its position as the 8th-largest footwear producer globally two years ago, holding a 2.1-percent share in the total production of shoes, as reported by industry insiders. Entrepreneurs note the presence of 200 tanneries and 3,500 MSMEs in Bangladesh along with 2,500 footwear units and 90 large firms collectively contributing to the country’s second largest export sector. The government has outlined a ten-year perspective plan with a target to boost the leather sector’s export earnings to $10-$12 billion by 2030. However, the industry has been confronting formidable challenges beyond economic considerations, primarily stemming from deficiencies in environmentally compliant processes and product manufacturing. The sector’s struggle to align with global environmental standards not only poses ecological threats but also undermines its competitiveness on the international stage. Environmental regulations and sustainability benchmarks increasingly influence consumer choices and trade partnerships, and the absence of stringent adherence to these criteria results in restricted market access and diminished demand. Consequently, as per the Export Promotion Bureau of the Government of Bangladesh, during the initial quarter of fiscal year 2023-2024, the overall exports of leather experienced a decline of 18.44% when compared to the corresponding period in the previous year, amounting to 267.49 million US dollars. This value was 12.18% below the targeted goal set for the period, which was 304.58 million US dollars. Experts and industrialists caution that achieving this goal is implausible without addressing compliance & sustainability issues.
Bangladesh currently collects around 16.5 million pieces of raw hides annually, obtained through the slaughtering of animals such as goats, cows, sheep, and buffalo. Besides, the conventional approach to obtaining leather from animal slaughter is outdated, leading to unpleasant odours and the spread of bacteria in processing units. Furthermore, tanneries, contributing to pollution, exacerbate environmental issues with foul smells in the vicinity and negative impacts on air and water quality. Globally, the industry generates approximately 14 million tons of solid waste annually, including trimmings, fleshings, and chrome shavings. Similarly, wastewater from tanneries, rich in organic matter, heavy metals, and pollutants, amounts to approximately 8 billion cubic meters annually, often inadequately treated, resulting in water pollution. In addition, the industry exiles 2.5 to 20 kg of methane equivalent per ton of leather produced.
So, in this situation, transitioning to mushroom-based leather production could be a more sustainable approach as the solution has the potential to be more ecological, customisable in shape, and resilient against environmental challenges that conventional leather faces. Its eco-friendly nature may tackle concerns about Bangladesh’s current production methods, allowing it to compete in markets demanding sustainable practices. Beyond environmental benefits, mushroom leather opens doors to ethical practices. As the demand for cruelty-free products rises, Bangladesh has the opportunity to tap into this expanding market by adopting animal-free alternatives, thereby bolstering its brand image and attracting new customer segments.
As of the latest available data, the global mushroom leather market is witnessing a surge in interest and investment, reflecting the growing demand for sustainable alternatives in the fashion and textile industry. Government policies and regulations promoting sustainability have also played a role in shaping the mushroom leather market. Some regions have introduced initiatives and incentives to encourage the use of alternative materials, aligning with global efforts to reduce the ecological footprint of industries. Consequently, a number of key producers and suppliers have emerged as pioneers in the development and commercialisation of mushroom leather, leveraging mycelium technology. Companies such as MycoWorks, Bolt Threads, and Ecovative Design are leading the way, actively contributing to the expansion of the market. These innovators are not only refining manufacturing processes but also collaborating with prominent fashion brands to integrate mushroom leather into their product lines.
Statistics indicate a promising trajectory for the global mushroom leather market. Market analysts project a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) that reflects the anticipated expansion of the market in the coming years. The presence of extensive information regarding production quantities, market shares, and regional trends emphasises the ever-changing landscape of the mushroom leather industry, showcasing its ongoing evolution and consolidation as a practical and environmentally friendly substitute in the larger global market.
However, to position itself effectively and capture a significant share of the global mushroom leather market, Bangladesh should consider implementing several strategic steps. Primarily, fostering research and development initiatives within the country can play a crucial role. To spearhead the research and development initiatives in mushroom leather production, Bangladesh can establish a multidimensional approach that integrates both public and private sector collaboration. Fostering partnerships between academic institutions and private enterprises can create a synergy of expertise. Besides encouraging and providing financial support for local entrepreneurs and start-ups involved in mycelium technology can be a catalyst for groundbreaking developments. The government can initiate grant programs or subsidies for research projects that explore novel techniques, improve efficiency, and enhance the overall sustainability of mushroom leather production. Additionally, collaboration with international research institutions and organisations can bring global insights and best practices to Bangladesh. Participating in joint ventures or research partnerships can expedite the learning curve and ensure that Bangladesh is at the forefront of advancements in mushroom leather technology.
Moreover, creating a conducive regulatory environment and implementing supportive policies will be vital. Clear guidelines and incentives for businesses involved in sustainable and eco-friendly practices, such as mushroom leather production, can attract both domestic and foreign investments. These policies could include tax breaks, subsidies, and streamlined regulatory processes. Besides, alliances with international fashion brands and retailers can accelerate market entry. Collaborations can provide a platform for Bangladesh to showcase its mushroom leather products on a global stage, tapping into established supply chains and consumer networks.
In addition, Bangladesh harbours the significant potential to emerge as an international supplier of mushrooms for mushroom leather manufacturers, complementing its domestic efforts in cultivating sustainable alternatives. The country’s favourable climate and fertile land present an ideal landscape for the mass cultivation of mycelium-rich mushrooms, a crucial ingredient in mushroom leather production. To realise its potential as an international supplier, Bangladesh should focus on implementing strategic steps. Initially, investing in enhancing mushroom cultivation techniques, ensuring both quality and quantity, will be imperative. Collaborations with global experts in mycology can bring advanced insights to local farmers. However, in the meantime establishing a comprehensive supply chain is also crucial. The government can incentivise and support local farmers in adopting sustainable mushroom farming practices, facilitating a consistent and robust source of mycelium. Moreover, emphasising quality control measures and certifications will enhance the global competitiveness of Bangladeshi-grown mushrooms, attracting international manufacturers of mushroom leather. To strengthen its position as a key international supplier, Bangladesh should actively engage in global marketing and networking initiatives. Participation in international trade fairs, establishing connections with mushroom leather manufacturers worldwide, and showcasing the country’s commitment to sustainable practices will enhance Bangladesh’s visibility and reputation as a reliable supplier.
In conclusion, the evolution of mushroom-based leather production stands as a revolutionary solution to address the environmental and ethical challenges entrenched in Bangladesh’s traditional leather industry. As the demand for sustainable alternatives gains momentum globally, transitioning to mushroom leather not only aligns with eco-friendly practices but also positions Bangladesh as a key player in this emerging market. The multifaceted approach involving research and development, regulatory support, and global collaborations is essential for Bangladesh to not only meet domestic demand sustainably but also become a reputable international supplier. By embracing mushroom leather, Bangladesh has the potential to revolutionise its leather industry, aligning with global sustainability standards and fostering a new era of eco-conscious and cruelty-free practices.
Authors: Golam Rabbani & Farhana Afser Moury
